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Under-stairs storage

Use the space under the stairs. All of it.

The space under the stairs is a triangle, and boxes are not. Our pieces step down with the slope, each section as tall as it can be, so the low end stops being where things go to be forgotten.

Join the waiting list How to measure
Cupboards and shelves following the slope under a staircase1,612 mm
Pieces for under the stairs

Start from one of these.

Each one opens ready to design. Change the sizes to yours.

Stepped shelving under a staircase1,612 mm

Stepped shelving

Open shelves that step down under the stairs or a sloping roof.

See the piece
Stepped cupboards under a staircase1,612 mm

Stepped cupboards

Cupboards that step down under the stairs or a sloping roof.

See the piece
Shelving cut to the slope1,612 mm

Cut-to-the-slope storage

Shelves and cupboards cut to the exact angle of your stairs or roof.

Coming soon
Under-stairs pull-outspulls out

Under-stairs pull-outs

Tall units on heavy runners that slide out sideways.

Coming soon
Measuring under the stairs

Measure the triangle.

  1. Width along the floorFrom the wall at the tall end to where you want the storage to stop. Measure at floor level and halfway up.
  2. Height at the tall endFrom the floor to the underside of the stairs, against the wall.
  3. Height at the short endFrom the floor to the underside of the stairs where the storage stops.
  4. DepthFrom the back wall to the front edge of the stairs (the stringer), if you want it flush.

The full measuring guide

Cupboards and shelves following the slope under a staircase1,612 mm
Why made to measure

Stepped, so nothing is wasted.

Each section has its own flat top, set just under the slope. That keeps every part square and easy to build, while following the stairs closely enough that the triangle is filled, not boxed off.

Stairs are all different, which is why fixed kits rarely fit. Ours are cut to yours.

Does it follow the slope exactly?

Close to it. Each section steps down to sit just under the stairs, so there's a small triangle above each top. Pieces cut to the exact angle are on our list for later.

Can I have doors?

Yes. Choose open shelves, cupboards, or a mix of both.

What about the meter or the pipes under my stairs?

Tell us where they are when you design, and we'll help you leave a gap or an open section around them.

What if my walls aren't straight?

Most aren't. Measure in three places and give us the smallest. For a fitted piece we take 50mm off so it slides in, and send infill panels to close the gap.

Can I see the colours first?

Yes. Our sample pack has our colours and a cut edge, so you can see them in your own light before you order.

How to measure

The measuring guide

The golden rules

  • Measure in millimetres. Every size on our site is in mm, so there's nothing to convert.
  • Measure every gap in three places. Top, middle and bottom for a width; left, middle and right for a height. Walls are rarely straight.
  • Give us the smallest. Your piece has to fit the tightest point.
  • Look for things in the way. Skirting boards, sockets, switches, pipes and picture rails. Note how far they stick out and how high they are.
  • The sizes are yours. We make it to the measurements you give us, so measure twice.
50 mmFor a fitted piece, give us the opening: we take 50mm off so it slides in, and send infill panels to close the gap. Freestanding pieces are made to exactly the size you give us.

Alcoves: three numbers, five minutes

  1. Width, three timesAt the top, the middle and just above the skirting. Alcoves are rarely square, so give us the smallest.
  2. HeightFloor to ceiling, or to the picture rail if you want to stop under it.
  3. DepthFrom the back wall to the front of the chimney breast, if you want it flush.

Under the stairs: measure the triangle

  1. Width along the floorFrom the wall at the tall end to where you want the storage to stop. Measure at floor level and halfway up.
  2. Height at the tall endFrom the floor to the underside of the stairs, against the wall.
  3. Height at the short endFrom the floor to the underside of the stairs where the storage stops.
  4. DepthFrom the back wall to the front edge of the stairs (the stringer), if you want it flush.

Hallways and landings: leave room to get past

  1. WidthWall to wall if it's a recess, or the length of wall you want to use. Look out for door frames and radiators.
  2. Depth you can spareMeasure the hallway width, then decide how much you can give up. Most people want at least 800mm left to walk through.
  3. HeightFloor to ceiling for a tall cupboard, or to just under a light switch or a coat hook for a bench.

Eaves and lofts: measure where the roof meets the wall

  1. WidthThe length of wall you want to use, at floor level.
  2. Height at the tall endFloor to ceiling where the slope starts, or where you want the storage to start.
  3. Height at the low endFloor to the slope where the storage stops.
  4. DepthHow far into the room you want it to come.

Box rooms: measure the room and the bulkhead

  1. WidthWall to wall, at the top, the middle and the floor.
  2. HeightFloor to ceiling.
  3. The bulkheadIts height from the floor, its width and how far it comes out from the wall.
  4. DepthHow far into the room you want the piece to come. Leave space for the door to open.

Chimney breast and TV wall: measure each part of the wall

  1. Each alcoveWidth in three places, height and depth, as for any alcove.
  2. The chimney breastIts width, and how far it stands out from the alcove walls.
  3. Under the TVThe height of the TV's bottom edge, so the media unit sits below it.

Bedrooms: measure the wall you're fitting

  1. WidthWall to wall, at the top, the middle and the floor.
  2. HeightFloor to ceiling, at both ends. Ceilings slope more than you'd think.
  3. DepthWardrobes need about 600mm for hangers. Check the door and the bed still have room.
  4. In the waySkirting, coving, sockets and switches: where they are and how far they stand out.

Not sure about something? Email a photo to hello@tamedspaces.co.uk and we'll help.
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